Notes
It is always optional to diminish or increase the quantities of the ingredients in the foregoing recipes according to the taste of the manufacturer, or the price of the article he wishes to produce; but this fact must be borne in mind, that it is only age that will give to absinthe that softness so much prized by consumers.
Remarks.--The greatest pains should be taken in the selection of the materials, especially the plants intended for the coloring; these should be very green and dry, and free from black and mouldy leaves. The seeds should be powdered in a mortar, and the great absinthe picked over and ground.
The distillation of absinthe should be effected in a Turk's-head still, in a water-bath, or, what is better, by steam, in order that the essential oils may rise more facility, especially towards the close of the operation; because the phlegm is employed in another operation, in which it is most useful, by adding to the perfume through the large proportions of essential oils it contains.
The coloring is of the highest importance. The plants are finely divided, or reduced to powder, and covered with perfumed spirits; then heated gently, in order to extract the chlorophylle or coloring principle. After cooling, the colored spirit is drawn off clear, and the plants are drained. They may still, after this operation, serve for coloring a smaller quantity of absinthe. They are then subjected to distillation, to collect and save the small quantity of alcohol still adhering to them.
In the large factories, the extract of absinthe is colored in tinned copper vessels, containing about twenty hectolitres--they are called colorers. These vessels, hermetically closed, are heated to 60 degrees by means of steam.
The coloring may be made in the cold way, but the operation requires many days, and a large quantity of plants, which considerably increase the acridity of absinthe.
When the coloring and perfumed spirit, held in reserve, have been mixed, the alcoholic strength is tested and reduced to 74°, although absinthe is never sold above 72°; but, by rest and time, there is always some loss which must be provided against.
The green color of absinthe becomes yellowish by age, and then has a dead-leaf tinge. The green tint may be preserved by adding, after the mixture, fifteen grammes of alum, dissolved in a glass of water; but consumers generally prefer the yellow tint. By age, absinthe improves in quality, by losing its sharp and empyreumatic taste, which is communicated by the distillation and coloring.
It is to be remarked that it is not the great variety of substances introduced into the manufacture that constitutes the great merit of absinthe, but rather the rational combination of a small number having peculiar virtues; thus, the anise serves to produce the whiteness; the fennel corrects the piquant and sugary taste of the anise, at the same time adding something to the flavor; the hyssop fulfils the same end, while it yields a beautiful green color, which the balm increases still more. Finally, the lesser absinthe, by its slightly yellowish tinge, modifies the excessive brilliancy of the green color, while its slight bitterness and aroma, added to those of the great absinthe, impart to this liquor the characteristics peculiar to a well-made product.
Absinthe is considered as being of good quality when, on being diluted with water, it becomes white, and exhibits the colors of the opal, which is due to the essential oils from the seeds, and the resinous and coloring matters of the plants, which, under these circumstances, are set at liberty, and form, with water, the milky compound so highly prized. In this state, it should be pleasant, agreeable, odorous, and sweetish. Sharpness and tastelessness are always signs of a recent manufacture.
Absinthes of inferior quality are often met with in the market. Some are manufactured without distillation, essences being used to replace the seeds and plants; some are distilled with trois-six from beets, &c., which leaves much to be desired in flavor; some are prepared with old or damaged materials, while, finally, there are others which, after the distillation have added to them aromatic resins, such as benzoin, guaiacum, &c., in order to increase the opalescense.
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(given after the White Absinthe recipe)
The abuse of absinthe, eve diluted with water, is most deleterious to the animal economy. Taken pure, it occasions serious disorders of the stomach and brain. It is not to the alcohol alone that these injurious effects are to be attributed, but more especially to the large quantity of essential oils of anise and fennel which it contains.
